Plants on T-shirts – the Magic of Eco-Printing
As part of the InterBridge project, we decided to try something that is quite literally within reach of all of us – dyeing textiles with plants.
Two workshops (September 4 and October 5), led by Ms Kubelková, focused on a technique known as eco-printing, in which natural dyes and the structures of leaves, flowers and other plant parts are transferred onto textiles.
The principle is actually quite simple, although an interesting physical and chemical process takes place. Leaves and other plant parts are placed directly onto the fabric, and the heat and moisture generated during steaming cause the plant cells to break down and release natural dyes, tannins and other substances. These substances then migrate from the plant material into the textile fibres. The prior mordanting of the fabric plays an important role, helping to create conditions for these substances to bind to and become fixed in the fibres. The resulting print is therefore not created by conventional printing, but by direct contact between the plant and the textile – transferring not only its colour, but often also the characteristic pattern of its veins and surface structure.
The workshop participants received pre-mordanted T-shirts, onto which they arranged plants they had brought themselves. It was not just about colour – the shape, structure and pattern of individual leaves and flowers were particularly important. The plant-covered T-shirts were then rolled around a flexible drainage pipe, wrapped in foil and steamed for approximately one hour. And then came the moment of truth. Unwrap the bundle, remove the plants… and see what had happened to the fabric during that hour of heat and steam.
The results were always slightly different, and that is precisely what makes eco-printing so fascinating. No two prints are ever exactly the same, even when using the same plant, turning an ordinary T-shirt into a unique piece of clothing. Ms Kubelková also brought along a selection of her own garments and textile products created using this technique for inspiration. The participants could see just how far natural dyes and plant structures can be taken in textile design.
The workshop was a great success, and it was clear that the participants really enjoyed the creative process. You can see that for yourselves in the photographs below.
Hana Křížová
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